Philips Hue Twilight Review: The Ultimate Sleep Lamp?

Derek Antosiek

Derek Antosiek / February 10, 2026

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We just got our hands on the Twilight, Hue’s new solution to a bedroom sunrise/sunset simulator.

In this article, we’ll review our testing results and my opinions after using it for a while.

The Overview

This is a excellent, pricey, sunrise simulator. The down-firing LEDs are unique among the sunrise lamp category, making this more potentially effective than others.

Couple that with its myriad of customizations and this is a good sunrise option for anyone with the money and comfort with smart devices in the bedroom.

Pros:

  • Small footprint overall, fits well on nightstands
  • Down-facing sunrise light may be more effective than other models
  • Sunrise settings can be very customized

Cons:

  • It is more expensive than other sunrise simulators
  • Need an app for setup
  • No audio options
  • Emits EMF

Introducing the Hue Twilight

The design is a little phallic… although I like it (not because it’s phallic mind you).

I’m just a sucker for a minimalistic modern look, which this has.

The Twilight features an unusual down-firing lamp for its main sunrise effect. We’ll go over this more later, but this alone potentially makes it one of the more effective and useful sunrise lamps out there.

It kind of reminds me of a Goomba.

There’s also an LED array on the back that creates a more dynamic effect on the wall and helps to illuminate the rest of the room.

oooooo aaaaaaa

The Twilight comes in both a white and black version and has a minimal and modern appeal.

The bottom is made of cork which I thought was a nice touch:

Corky.

The only controls are two buttons found on the top of the lamp:

The functions of these buttons can be changed within the Hue app, which we’ll review in a second. But here’s what they do out of the box:

  • Hue Button
    • Press: Starts “Go to Sleep” automation
    • Hold: Stops “Go to Sleep” automation
  • Dot Button
    • Press: Cycles through “scenes”
    • Hold: Turns off the lamp

Setup & App Features

To set up the Twilight lamp you’ll need the Hue app, which you’ll already have if you own any other Hue product. The great thing about Hue lights is they can be used over Bluetooth and don’t require the Hub. So you don’t need to buy that if you’re not already into the Hue ecosystem.

  • CAUTION: A Hue Hub is now required to access many of Twilight’s features.

After pairing, the Twilight offers to control extra lights if you’d like:

This could be useful if you also have Hue bulbs in your bedroom that you’d like to sync up to this.

After this you’ll be shown how to use the buttons:

Then you’re free to add and edit your sunrise automation and sunset timings by clicking on the automation tab at the bottom of the app.

You can create as many wake-up (sunrise) automations as you’d like.

Sunrise Automation

Let’s talk about setting up the sunrise.

Clicking on the wake-up automation, you’ll see timing, fade duration, maximum brightness (recommendations for this later), and how long the light stays on after it’s finished its sunrise.

You can set your sunrise duration anywhere from 10-30 minutes, and whether or not and how long you want the light to remain on after it completes its sunrise.

While selecting your fade duration you’ll be shown when it will start.

Sunset Automation

By default, the Twilight’s Hue button starts the “Go to sleep” automation. There are a few settings you can customize here:

The length of the sunset can now be set to 10, 20, or 30 minutes. You can choose to end this by turning the lights off, staying dimmed, or using a warm nightlight mode.

I think this is a nice feature.

Nightlight Mode

The Hue app also offers some other modes like “Nightlight” which I found quite pleasant.

At 6 inches, this mode only emits around 8 lux and contains almost no blue light.

Perfect for use at night.

Testing the Sunrise Simulation

The first thing we wanted to test was the Twilight’s total light output during its sunrise. For this, we placed it inside our integration sphere and ran a 30-minute sunrise.

The Hue Twilight in our integration sphere

After our test, we can see two things:

  1. At 100% output, the peak brightness of Twilight is much higher than that of all the other sunrise simulators we’ve tested.
  2. We see a very nice gradual curve, which I prefer for sunrises.

The Hue Twilight is unique in its sunrise effect. It starts at a dim blue, like a real sunrise, and slowly shifts to a warm 2000K before climbing back up to 2700 K.

Here we can see what that looks like:

Overall I think this creates a nice gradual sunrise effect that’s likely to work very well.

Testing Lux and Optimal Distances

But more important than its total output is its directional lux.

This is what you’ll need to know to fine-tune it for optimal waking.

To do this we placed the Twilight in front of our lux spectrometer and tested lux for various brightnesses every 6 inches.

Getting this lamp positioned properly for this test was a big pain in the butt!

We like to recommend folks start with a peak brightness of around 250 lux and adjust from there.

The Twilight is easily one of the brightest sunrise lamps we’ve tested. White is ideal for starting, while the darker the pink, the higher your chances of experiencing early or delayed awakening.

As you can see from this lux chart, at 1 foot away, you’ll want to drop the brightness down to around 60% to start, and perhaps up to around 80% once you get a foot and a half away.

One thing I appreciated about the Twilight design, is that it projects light down, while every other lamp projects horizontally.

The Twilight shines down on you from above, making it one of the more directionally effective sunrise lamps out there.

This means that you’re more likely to get an effective dose in more head positions with Twilight than with other lamps.

Here’s a sped up video fo the Hue Twilight sunrise:

Flicker

We checked the flicker on all of the lights we tested using a LabFlicker meter from Viso Systems.

This is so anyone with flicker sensitivities can make an informed decision.

The Twilight does have some high-frequency 4000 Hz flicker at full brightness, which shouldn’t be a concern for most people. It does increase quite a bit once dimmed:

But even still, this isn’t enough to bother most people in any way.

Here you can see that it’s still right in the no-effect zone on the IEEE’s 1789 flicker risk standard:

So unless you know you have issues with high-frequency flicker, I wouldn’t worry about this.

Overall Thoughts

What we’re primarily interested in here is whether or not this is a good sunrise simulator, and it is. You have plenty of sunrise customization options and scheduling, and the down-firing main LED module means that this lamp will be able to illuminate your eyes in more head positions than other lamps.

It emits tons of light, so much so that you’ll likely have issues with early waking if you use it at full brightness, but the slow ramp-up ensures that if you choose your peak brightness wisely it should wonders.

If you can stomach the cost, and the design, this is a great sunrise simulator.

Philips Hue Twilight Sleep and Wake-Up Light

Pros:

  • Small footprint overall, fits well on nightstands
  • Down-facing sunrise light may be more effective than other models
  • Sunrise settings can be very customized

Cons:

  • More expensive than other sunrise simulators
  • Need an app for setup
  • No audio options
  • Emits EMF
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Europhilly

Is it worth getting this over the Philips SmartSleep lamps? I have the (now discontinued, overpriced) app-controlled version, but it doesn’t work well as a bedside lamp, and I would like to program a nice mellow light in the evening before even going to sleep. I guess I would still have to figure out an audible alarm if I went for this lamp that should be synced with this lamp somehow…

Jorge

I saw that this lamp emits EMF, but is it actually something to worry about? What are the downsides, and could it be an issue in certain situations?
Thanks beforehand

Joe

A few notes. I just received a Twilight today. Out of the box, it wasn’t capable of the blue-to-sunlight shift you mentioned. After pushing a firmware update, this feature became available. Under “advanced,” it only had one option, which was “transition to bright.” The rear light had sunrise, and “transition to bright.” Second, the options for fade-in are 10 minutes, 20 minutes, or 30 minutes. No options beyond that. You can set the wake time (though the UI is so atrocious that you can’t tell if that’s when the light is going to initially come on, or if that’s when the light hits maximum brightness), but there are no options for which days. It looks like you need to manually open the app and set the wake routine to on every time. Finally, there is no option for maximum brightness, which is perplexing because on the “wake-up routine” (there are no automations) I can’t imagine the maximum brightness being bright enough to wake me up. I CAN get brighter in the manual settings, but apparently not as part of a “routine.” Also, routine? FFS, just call it “alarm” or “wake up time.” That’s the ENTIRE USE CASE FOR THIS!!!!

Overall, back in the days when I was a software quality assurance manager, I would have told the UI designers that I’d desk-reject the release based on the spec alone. Given that the light is $280, I’d recommend nobody buy it based on the lousy functionality. I mean, in 2025, you should be able to program different alarm times for different days of the week. From a coding perspective this is not rocket science, it’s just all basic intro to computer programming stuff.

Not your fault, it seems like Philips did something to cripple the app since you did the review. Obviously, they aren’t paying much to whomever they are farming this app out to because it’s objectively terrible. It is not hyperbole to say that a first-semester user experience major could design a better app before the first lecture.

Joe

Also… HOLY BUGS BATMAN!!! So, either they didn’t put green LEDs in the main front light and just did some whackadoodle math, or my unit is wired wrong, or someone loaded red LEDs in the automation unit, but when I edit the light and drag the front light from center (4000ºK) to the green, as you get closer to the green edge it goes from white to red. Does yours do the same?

Joe

Okay, ignore the last comment. My unit is defective, green LEDs not functioning on the front lamp. It’s going back. The comments about the app stand.